On the 2nd we left Whitehorse, population: 25,000. Despite our brave face and hollow threats, we spent our last two nights in an old barge (on land), seeking safety from the missiles of our stone-throwing nemesis. Then, after loading up on food and a last night in Flippers, hearing such remarks as “my grandfather would have shot you with an arrow” and ”all you white people are full of shit”, we were ready for the road once more.
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We didn’t have far to go on the first day as we had been offered a place to stay by Ron and Suzanne and their children Abby and Orion (though I doubt the children had much say about it). So it was only about a 15 mile ride in the plummetting temperatures out to their house, where they had prepared a room for us, complete with a wood burner, which was unbelievable luxury. That evening was the first snow of the winter, which we celebrated with a snowball fight. The highlight for me was throwing a small snowball at Tom so that he felt safe to collect snow and then launching my pre-made icy monster and getting him right in the side of his head. That might be his highlight too, I’m not sure. Abby also introduced me to a new tactic I might try next time - it involves running right up to someone and then throwing the snowball at them from close range, relying on their moment’s hesitation about throwing snow at a little girl.
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The snow was gone by morning and so after pancakes we headed out east, with our next real town 300 miles away. On the way out, Orion told us “I just have to get my bag and put my coat on and put a poo on my head”, which reminded me of Tom as a child, though I didn’t know him then.
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At the end of the second day Tom’s knees were causing him grief again and so the next day we rested in a place called Teslin. We left again feeling good but within 30 miles his knees were forcing him to walk up all the hills and so he decided to hitch ahead to Watson Lake to give them a break while I caught up. The temperature dropped to -6 on the first night but fortunately I was sleeping outside a lodge and was welcomed in to sit by the fire in the morning to warm up. It was a glorious ride that day, with the frost lasting until late afternoon and I stopped for the evening in a campsite. I met William Oefelein there, and shared his fire, and had his last beer and some of his whisky. You won’t have heard of him but he’s an astronaut and he’s been in space. And I met him. He’s probably telling the same story about me.
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One other person I’d like to mention is Christopher because of his strange behaviour. I was sitting down eating a pack of Doritos and reading my book when he came to say hi. Anyway after a bit of chit chat he got into it, asking if I had read the bible. Not really listening to my answer he gave me a web address (http://www.bibletruth.com/) so I had to be a little clearer. Anyway, I got back on with the cycling, just 15 miles from Watson Lake at this point. 10 miles later Christopher was behind me in his car, he pulled up alongside me to offer me a lift (which of course I had to politely decline) and then told me that he just wanted to say “jesus really loves you and he really is real”, I said thanks and he turned round and drove back home.
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I am now back with the Bish in Watson Lake. We are both feeling well and ready to ride once more, confident that no setbacks await us. We are currently 130 miles from Liard Hot Springs, and then another 200 miles from Fort Nelson, our next target. Oh, also I’ve seen 4 moose/mooses/mice.